Walking Zadar’s Old Town Is a Loop Through History


A virtually two-mile stroll circumnavigating Zadar’s Previous City is a journey throughout a timeline that spans almost each stage of Croatian historical past. And it’s a protracted historical past, relationship again to the ninth century B.C., when the Liburnians first settled this peninsular spit of land on Croatia’s spectacular Dalmatian coast.

Begin your stroll on the northwest nook of the peninsula on the Morske Orgulje, or Sea Organ: a set of 35 pipes unfold beneath a 230-foot part of town’s seaside promenade, often called the Riva. Awarded the 2006 European Prize for City Public Area, the Morske Orgulje performs superbly discordant melodies because the Adriatic laps the stone and pushes air by the pipes beneath — changing the walkway into an invisible, ethereal orchestra.

After the tidal live performance, proceed previous the “Greeting to the Solar” set up (you’ll have an opportunity to linger there on the finish of your stroll) and across the Previous City’s northeast nook.

Proceed southeast, strolling alongside Zadar’s harbor-facing partitions, constructed and bolstered between the twelfth and seventeenth centuries as a part of the Venetian Republic’s Adriatic protection community.

Earlier than shifting on, cease on the Backyard Lounge, which sits atop the fortifications with views of ferries shuttling passengers to close by islands, for a neighborhood Backyard I.P.A. (3.50 euros, or about $3.75), then stroll alongside the partitions till you attain the Metropolis Bridge in your left. Take a proper by the Nova Vrata, or New Gate — an archway constructed throughout Italy’s pre-World Warfare II occupation — and into the pedestrian-only Previous City.

Make your approach to Individuals’s Sq.. The town’s cafe-strewn fundamental piazza is the positioning of City Corridor and is outlined, on its western edge, by the road identified regionally as Kalelarga, Zadar’s fundamental thoroughfare for the reason that Romans laid its grid within the first century B.C.

Grasp a left on the traditional avenue’s southern extension, Elizabete Kotromanić Road, which modifications names thrice as you cross the coral-colored Baroque Church of St. Simeon, stroll beneath a solitary pillar from Zadar’s Roman Discussion board, and cross the expansive Petar Zoranić Sq., the place you may view layers of historical past — Roman and medieval — frozen in time beneath glass.

Go proper onto Trg Pet Bunara Road, which ends up in 5 Wells Sq.. Guarded by the 85-foot Kapetanova Kula (Captain’s Tower), the wells offered town water throughout a Sixteenth-century, Ottoman Empire siege. Climb the steps to the tranquil Queen Jelena Madijevka Park, established within the early 1800s as one of many area’s first public parks. From this elevated vantage, you’ll look south over tiny Foša Harbor and your subsequent two stops.

The primary is the monumental Land Gate, probably the most ornate of the wall entrances, inbuilt 1543 with carvings of Venice’s winged lion and Zadar’s patron saint, Chrysogonus. Then stroll midway down the harbor, the place it opens to the ocean, and take a waterside desk at Restaurant Foša. The grilled sea bass with sunchoke purée and greens (€34.51) and a glass of native white pošip wine (€7) will present gasoline to your journey’s ultimate stretch.

On the harbor’s finish, flip north to stroll the size of the Nineteenth-century Riva, town’s seaside esplanade. “The Riva is the place family and friends meet,” mentioned Iva Bencun, the managing director of Zadar Outside Pageant, which hosts actions each right here and on the island of Ugljan, a 25-minute ferry trip throughout the channel. “That is additionally the place we discover peace and notice our troubles should not that huge in spite of everything.”

As daylight wanes, discover your personal peace close to the Riva’s pier to witness town’s well-known sundown, which Alfred Hitchcock as soon as known as “the world’s most stunning.” With the scattered ruins of the Roman Discussion board, relationship to the primary century B.C., and the cylindrical, ninth-century Church of St. Donat behind you, observe the solar’s final flash into the ocean. Then, end your loop, appropriately, at “Greeting to the Solar,” a circle of almost 4,100 sq. toes of photo voltaic panels embedded within the promenade that take in power all day and supply a pulsing gentle present all night time.


Distance: 1.75 miles

Problem: Straightforward

Time to stroll: About two hours, permitting time to linger.

Good for teenagers: Sure. The largely car-free stroll mixes historical past, the ocean and science right into a enjoyable, diversified outing.