Opinion: Is Los Angeles a paradise? A guide to the guidebooks that claimed it was


After a long time of enthusiastically giving Los Angeles excursions to out-of-town family and friends, and even co-authoring a strolling information to the town, I’m all too conscious that issues have modified. Latest friends have been surprised by the tent encampments, sidewalks piled with particles and shuttered storefronts I see day by day. I really feel embarrassed and heartbroken for the unhoused, their neighbors, my metropolis.

Displaying our issues to guests has made me assume how Los Angeles — even with its historical past of civil unrest and corruption, poverty and racism, earthquakes and fires — usually will get measured in opposition to a convention of cheery propaganda selling a West Coast paradise. Nineteenth century journey writers likened L.A. to the Holy Land, and the cliché of the California dream persists, regardless of those that say the promise of abundance and contemporary begins is lifeless, and the dream, a nightmare.

I made a decision to discover the sources of Los Angeles boosterism and the gap between the “blessed” metropolis and the tent cities we see now. The Huntington Library, Artwork Museum and Botanical Gardens, in San Marino, graciously gave me standing as a “reader” with entry to its formidable uncommon e book assortment. In California guidebooks relationship again to the nineteenth century, I discovered the triumphalism, defensiveness and merited satisfaction that’s been baked into Los Angeles’ communal psyche and tourism from the beginning. I additionally discovered prophecies about L.A.’s future success and hints of its enduring failures.

Revealed in 1885, “The Los Angeles Metropolis and County Guidebook for Vacationers and Strangers” praises the area for its “unequalled assets and very good local weather” that, it boasts, will remedy “innumerable … tormenting ills.” It’s the oldest information I discovered within the Huntington’s archives. Apart from touting healing climate, it urges guests to strive the primary electrical elevator in Los Angeles in a four-story downtown workplace block. And it predicts that pipsqueak Los Angeles — then smaller than San Francisco — would develop in “wealth and inhabitants greater than some other part within the state.”

"A Full and Accurate Description of Climate, Fertility of Soil, Place of Resort, and Objects of Interest, Etc. Etc. Etc."

(Larry Gordon picture / Huntington Library, Artwork Museum and Botanical Gardens books; Los Angeles Instances picture illustration)

The 1886 “Southern California Guidebook: A Full and Correct Description of Local weather, Fertility of Soil, Place of Resort, and Objects of Curiosity, And so forth. And so forth. And so forth.” sends vacationers to a 700-acre ostrich farm in Los Feliz (adults, 50 cents; youngsters, 25 cents) and to Pasadena’s Raymond Lodge, the place “the careworn capitalist can relaxation and benefit from the heat sunshine in a quiet and elevated place.”

It hails L.A. as “one of the flourishing habitations of man, which has been so extremely favored and blessed.” It not less than additionally confesses to “rare earthquakes and hailstorms” and professes a bit of civic humility by the use of a humblebrag: L.A. “shouldn’t be an ideal paradise, nor a heaven on earth, however it’s good to be discovered residing right here.”

In fact, this type of puffery was pumped by actual property pursuits, railroads, newspapers, film studios and politicians. The painful distance from the reality would gasoline satirical novels (since Nathanael West), progressive politics (since Upton Sinclair) and muckraking journalism (since Carey McWilliams).

In “The Bear Ebook, A Information to California,” revealed in 1908 by the California Vacationer Bureau in Los Angeles, the local weather will get its due once more (“not good, however none is so almost so”) and new buildings are praised (“not the best … however no one in every of them shrinks from comparability”). “Higher come early,” the “Bear Ebook” smugly advises these considering relocating, “and keep away from disappointment. “

The breathlessness of the guides didn’t shock me, however the informal racism in some — and the best way it revealed the darkish aspect of paradise — did.

 “Wilson’s Official Guide to Los Angeles,” 1901

(Larry Gordon picture / Huntington Library, Artwork Museum and Botanical Gardens guidebooks; Los Angeles Instances picture illustration)

Supposed opium dens of Chinatown are highlighted in “Wilson’s Official Information to Los Angeles,” 1901 (25 cents). Chinese language immigrants, it states, “apparently require much less air than different mortals” since they sleep crowded on “cabinets in small rooms hardly match for one.”

The “Vacationers’ Information Ebook to Southern California,” revealed in 1894, warns about Chinatown’s risks: “Particularly at evening, it’s advisable to go within the firm of some buddy who understands the heathens’ methods or with a policeman.”

The 1885 “Metropolis and County Guidebook” assures readers that Mexicans might be pushed from downtown’s plaza the place “each sq. foot … represents a murdered sufferer.” Mexicans are “being step by step eliminated by the rise of the worth of property,” the e book crows. “Because the American component is coming in, crime lessens.”

The Despair produced a unique sort of guidebook. “Los Angeles within the Nineteen Thirties: The WPA Information to the Metropolis of Angels” is a 2011 College of California Press repackaging of the 1941 Federal Writers Undertaking quantity. In its unique preface, Writers Undertaking official John D. Keyes wrote that the aim was to “current Los Angeles in truth and objectively, neither glorifying it nor vilifying it.” Too usually the town “has been lashed as a metropolis of sin and cranks; it additionally has been strangled beneath a humid blanket of unrestrained eulogy.”

Immediately’s readers might be startled by how a lot within the WPA guidebook has disappeared and the way a lot didn’t but exist.

Touted however now vanished: downtown’s wonderful 13-story Richfield Constructing, clad in black terra cotta and gold stripes “symbolizing the black gold of the oil fields,” and the “huge, rambling” Ambassador Lodge (its swimming pool boasted a man-made seashore). Vacationers may spot film stars on the Cocoanut Grove, the Brown Derby and Ciro’s (all gone now.)

There was no Music Heart, no county Museum of Artwork, no Dodger Stadium; the primary freeway, the Pasadena, was simply opening. But, with the leisure trade right here, the WPA e book foretold that “Los Angeles might effectively turn into one of many world’s most influential facilities of tradition.”

After World Struggle II, skepticism elevated. In his 1947 “My L.A.” essays, L.A. Each day Information columnist Matt Weinstock startled me with similarities to right now’s housing disaster. He describes veterans “residing in shops, garages, basements or trailers” and “evicted households sleeping of their automobiles and single rooms with out baths or cooking services.”

His prognosis is cautionary: Los Angeles may finish in greatness or “conceited, militant mediocrity.”

“There isn’t a rapid hope,” Weinstock writes, “that Los Angeles will work itself out of its chaos. There’s merely the chance that with a bit of luck it would make a sample of the chaos.”

In current a long time, publication of L.A. guidebooks has mushroomed. Many fixate on film stars’ graves, rock golf equipment, surf seashores and meals vans. Some, just like the 2021 “Individuals’s Information to Los Angeles,” one other UC Press venture, refreshingly tout landmarks of ethnic minorities and labor activism. It paperwork, for instance, the previous Black Panther headquarters raided by police and a sweatshop that imprisoned immigrant employees.

Most newer guides ultimately nonetheless handle the attract and the fraying of the California dream, the sense of an unique paradise discovered and misplaced.

So is it lastly time to relinquish the concept Los Angeles is so particular? Or ought to we maintain ourselves and our metropolis to the outdated best, even when it was partly imaginary? Might the “extremely favored and blessed” delusion prod us to deal with our issues, push us to lastly justify the hype?

No guidebook can provide us the solutions as we compose our future.

Larry Gordon, a local of New Jersey, has lived in Los Angeles for 39 years. He’s a former workers author for the Los Angeles Instances and EdSource, and co-author of “Stairway Walks in Los Angeles.”