Why I Flew 4,000 Miles to Spend My ‘Solar Return’ in Alaska

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I’m deep in an Alaskan forest midway by way of an 8K race once I discover myself alone. Above me, 100-foot spruces bend and bellow, set upon by wind so loud I mistake it for an airplane. Under me, a slushy, icy mess of a path.

Forward of me — nobody.

It’s a drizzly November morning. My garments are moist with rain and my fingers and toes damage from the chilly. I look down at my black trainers, keen them to maneuver sooner. They don’t.

I can not see the 2 girls I adopted for the primary half of the run, and I think about the hole widening. Then I image myself on a map: a speck some 4,000 miles away from my dwelling in South Florida. I see my 7-year-old daughter’s chubby cheeks and soiled blond curls, my 5-year-old son together with his thumb in his mouth.

“I’m going to die right here, alone,” I believe. Previously, I by no means had ideas like this. I used to be all swagger: Again once I lived in Jerusalem, I ran on remoted trails within the forest nearly each afternoon. However since submitting for divorce in August, I’ve develop into scared of being alone. And being in Alaska — with its vastness, the way in which it dangles, lonely, on the fringe of the continent — has solely magnified these emotions.

I attempt to meet up with the ladies, however I’m tapped out, No. 12 in a area of a dozen. I fear: What if everybody finishes and goes dwelling? I don’t have my telephone; there will likely be no means for me to name for assist.

After which I ask myself: Why did I come all the way in which to Alaska on the recommendation of a complete stranger, to chase one thing I’m not even certain I consider in — an astrological occasion referred to as a photo voltaic return?

A photo voltaic return takes place for the time being when the solar returns to precisely the identical location within the sky the place it was on the time of your beginning, defined Julia Mihas, a San Francisco-based astrologer. This normally takes place yearly on or close to your birthday.

The pondering behind photo voltaic return journeys is that simply because the place the place you’re born has an impression in your beginning chart — which supposedly reveals main themes in your life story — so can the place the place you spend your photo voltaic return have an effect on the yr forward. In essence, an astrologer, utilizing your yearly chart, searches for the place the place the celebrities will likely be most auspicious for the time being of your photo voltaic return, and then you definitely journey to that location. It’s like hacking your horoscope.

These journeys, often known as aimed photo voltaic returns, or A.S.R.s, are central to an method referred to as energetic astrology, which holds you can intervene in your destiny.

Let me confess that I’m a bit woo-woo. I lately purchased a small piece of Libyan desert glass — which is meant to work with chakras or vibrations or no matter — and hung it over my desk. However photo voltaic return journeys — which I’d heard about from a buddy — appeared on the market; I thought of one solely after my marriage fell aside. That buddy linked me to Katia Novikova, a Ukrainian astrologer who lives in Rome.

When Ms. Novikova, a pianist by coaching, took up astrology in 1995, she instantly started looking for a option to train management over the celebrities. Just a few years later, she found energetic astrology. Ms. Novikova’s first foray into photo voltaic return journeys got here in 2011, after she did her chart for the yr forward and foresaw her personal demise. She recalled with fun how she used a mix of software program and her intensive data of astrology to discover a photo voltaic return vacation spot — Barcelona — the place her stars provided a greater consequence: “As an alternative of dying, I modified it for well being, for artwork and for cash. It was easy.”

The journey was additionally straightforward — a reasonable flight from Rome.

Upon returning, Ms. Novikova landed an everyday gig as a pianist, and requests for personal classes poured in as effectively.

So not solely did Ms. Novikova proceed doing A.S.R.s, she additionally provided free readings to buddies. When phrase unfold and strangers started inquiring about readings, Ms. Novikova began charging.

A type of strangers who discovered Ms. Novikova is the tv author Safia M. Dirie, who requested to not give her age.

On Ms. Novikova’s recommendation, Ms. Dirie, who lives in Los Angeles, made her first photo voltaic return journey in 2016 to the Cook dinner Islands, a small South Pacific nation, trying to change her luck in love. Lower than a yr later, she met the person who’s now her husband.

The subsequent yr, Ms. Novikova despatched Ms. Dirie to a tiny city referred to as Swink, inhabitants 667, on the southeastern plains of Colorado. As a result of there have been no lodges in Swink and her photo voltaic return was happening in the midst of the night time, Ms. Dirie and a buddy white-knuckled it from Colorado Springs, a few hours away. At the hours of darkness, amid a twister warning, tumbleweeds stored rolling out in entrance of the automotive and she or he stored slamming on the brakes, pondering they have been deer.

When Ms. Dirie and her buddy arrived in Swink, they discovered it pitch black, the ability knocked out by the storm. They parked in entrance of a random home till her 2:08 a.m. photo voltaic return handed. Then the 2 “went over to the subsequent city and received a chunk of pie at an all-night diner.”

Ms. Dirie, who likened her personal photo voltaic return journeys to pilgrimages, stated that A.S.R.s are “fairly well-liked” in her Los Angeles circle, however photo voltaic return journeys aren’t a nationwide journey pattern, in line with the half-dozen journey advisers I spoke with.

Like a journey adviser, Ms. Novikova tries to know what motivates a consumer. After I contacted her through electronic mail — only a month after I’d filed for divorce — and paid 100 euros, about $110, she had me reply questions on my hopes for the approaching yr. Then she did her magic and we received on a Whatsapp video chat to debate the outcomes.

Ms. Novikova began with the chart for my earlier birthday. “Depressing,” she stated. It was all there — the rise in bills, the undesirable transfer to a cramped house, the limitless arguments with my husband.

My forecast for 2023 can be finest, Ms. Novikova stated, if I went to Prince Rupert, British Columbia, at 5:12 a.m. native time on Nov. 13. I Googled the place: Stunning however distant; the logistics have been daunting.

Second: Juneau, Alaska. My abdomen turned. Far-off. Chilly. A darkish, foreboding panorama that would swallow me up. There’s the Alaska triangle, an unlimited space of wilderness bounded by the cities of Juneau, Anchorage and Utqiagvik (previously Barrow), the place many individuals have gone lacking. The state can be surprisingly harmful, with one of many highest violent crime charges within the nation.

No, thanks.

Third place: Brazil. Sure! Solar, seashores, nice meals. However Ms. Novikova frowned. “There are some issues I don’t like on this horoscope,” she stated. And that was that.

We settled on Juneau, and Ms. Novikova gave me an in depth forecast for the yr based mostly on that vacation spot. Not solely would I look good bodily, I’d have extra skilled visibility. I’d have luck promoting my new e-book. Ms. Novikova stated she noticed an editor and a college.

Oh, and love. A dream job, too.

As a result of it was the low season in Alaska, I discovered a round-trip ticket from Palm Seaside to Juneau for underneath $500 and an affordable fee — $100 an evening — for a room on the historic Alaskan Resort, which is reportedly haunted. If I’m dabbling within the woo-woo, I figured, I’d as effectively go all out.

Then I regarded for a run, an effective way to get a exercise and a special view of a spot from that of most vacationers. I used to be in luck — the Juneau Path and Street Runners’ Veterans Day 8K would happen the day earlier than my photo voltaic return.

Arriving in downtown Juneau a couple of days early, I labored remotely and explored what little was open within the low season. On the Rookery Cafe, I loved spiced avocado toast, and on the Alaska Native-owned Sacred Grounds Café, I had a scrumptious however stomachache-inducing reindeer sausage. I discovered wonderful beer and phenomenal charred carrot hummus at Satan’s Membership Brewing Firm. And Amalga Distillery provided spruce tip gin and a easy, sippable whiskey.

I settled right into a routine — working, operating, consuming — and two days in, I didn’t want Google maps anymore.

On the day of the race, I took a bus to a car parking zone 10 miles outdoors city. As a small group of runners gathered, I requested two girls in the event that they minded me tagging alongside. However they have been youthful, leaner and fitter and so they have been dressed appropriately — one had snow grips connected to her footwear — and I misplaced the ladies halfway by way of the run.

Alone within the woods, despairing, I heard somebody push by way of the bushes and step onto the path. Earlier than me was a person I didn’t acknowledge. He was dressed like a runner, however I didn’t see the yellow bib all of the racers wore. He fell into step beside me, explaining that he had stopped to go to the lavatory and determined to attend for me.

Earlier than, I used to be scared to be out right here alone; now, I used to be frightened by this stranger’s sudden look. Attempting to push my concern apart, I made small discuss. We arrived at a fork within the snowy path and, as a result of the race was so casual, not the entire course was marked. Each instructions have been equally lined with slushy footprints and, with out something or anybody to information us, we puzzled over which option to go.

“Proper,” he stated.

“Are you certain?” I requested, frightened that he was attempting to guide me deeper into the woods.

However separating would have been equally harmful, so I adopted him. After which, abruptly, we have been on the shoulder of Glacier Freeway, and I used to be striding towards the end line as finest as I might with numb toes.

“There they’re!” exclaimed the opposite runners; they cheered us on as the person and I pushed to the top. Not solely had they not forgotten about me, they have been ready. A single thought spooled by way of my head — I’m not alone on this world — and I choked again tears of gratitude.

That night time, at 4 a.m., I awakened — sans alarm — only a few minutes forward of my photo voltaic return. Mendacity there in the dead of night, I listened for, then heard, the raven’s name, which I’d grown to like whereas in Juneau. I regarded on the telephone once more, and the time had handed. My photo voltaic return was over.

After returning to Florida, I framed and hung the yellow race bib on the wall as a talisman, just like the Libyan desert stone I’d purchased earlier than the journey, as a reminder of how far I’d traveled and the way far I’d come. And three weeks later, similar to that, my divorce was ultimate. I had confronted my concern of being alone.

Oh, and a few months after that, an editor — from a college press — made me a suggestion for my e-book.

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