‘The Place Where Shamans Dream’: Safeguarding Spirit Mountain


Earlier within the week, I had pushed to Needles, Calif., to go to the Pipa Aha Macav Cultural Middle (Pipa Aha Macav is the Fort Mojave time period for “folks by the river”). Driving south on Freeway 95, I handed a sprawling photo voltaic mission that ultimately gave solution to open desert. Creosote bushes, nonetheless inexperienced from the August monsoon, carpeted the valley. Within the distance, I might make out the silhouette of the Highland Vary, topped with darkish piñon and juniper forests.

Johnny Ray Hemmers, a tribal council member, met me within the middle’s cultural classroom, the place native youths be taught conventional actions like portray, beading and dancing. Mr. Hemmers, 38, is a heat, quick-talking man with twinkling eyes. He spoke brazenly about his tribe’s lengthy historical past within the desert and of the importance of Ave Kwa Ame. “As a baby, seeing the mountain meant rather a lot to me,” he mentioned. “Once I checked out it, I knew who I used to be and the place I got here from.”

Avi Kwa Ame, for the Fort Mojaves, will not be a leisure place. Every October, members participate in a 34-mile ceremonial run that begins on the base of the mountain and continues all the best way to Needles, ending with a plunge within the icy Colorado River. The occasion honors conventional “spirit runners” who as soon as ferried messages between tribes, just like couriers in historical Greece.

I additionally spoke to a member of the Moapa Band of Paiutes, a neighboring tribe, who don’t depend Avi Kwa Ame as their origin web site, however nonetheless acknowledge its deep cultural relevance. “Our footprints are all all through this space,” Shanan Anderson, the tribe’s cultural supervisor, advised me.

The Fort Mojave tribe identifies itself because the mountain’s caretaker, and its members aren’t any strangers to environmental justice. In 1998, they efficiently fended off a proposed nuclear dump web site in Ward Valley, 20 miles west of Needles, and in 2006 marked a authorized victory in opposition to Pacific Fuel & Electrical, whose pipelines threatened to seep poisonous chromium-6 into the Colorado River. They’re assured that the marketing campaign for Avi Kwa Ame will finish in victory, too.

In June, Mr. Hemmers was a part of a delegation that met with Deb Haaland, the secretary of the Inside, on the foot of Avi Kwa Ame to clarify the positioning’s significance. Underneath craggy granite spires, the tribe sang conventional songs which have been handed down over generations. After listening to their tales, Ms. Haaland was visibly moved. “She had tears in her eyes,” Mr. Hemmers recalled.