From Nashville to Tupelo on the Natchez Trace Parkway


The rain quickly stopped and I pulled over to open the sunroof simply as my iPhone’s shuffle setting landed on Patty Griffin singing “Heavenly Day.” The newly showered flora was fragrant and, mid-afternoon on a Tuesday, there was not one other automobile for miles.

Roughly 30 miles north of Tupelo, I approached the Pharr Mounds at mile marker 286.7: eight gently sloping burial mounds constructed by Indigenous folks some 2,000 to 1,800 years in the past, in accordance with the park service.

Unfold over 90 acres, the mounds are one of many largest Center Woodland websites within the southeastern United States. 4 mounds have been excavated in 1966 by the park service. Cremated and unburned human stays have been discovered, together with artifacts from as far south because the Gulf of Mexico and as far north because the Nice Lakes, which meant they’d been imported by means of commerce networks.

It was now 5:30 p.m. and nightfall was bringing out wildlife. A Cooper’s hawk made a large gradual arc overhead. It’s common to see foxes, coyotes and armadillos close to the parkway. There have been black bear sightings, although they’re uncommon.

As daylight gave technique to dusk, I entered Tupelo, Miss., residence of the annual Tupelo Elvis Pageant, held every June.

A room in Tupelo’s Consolation Suites for $132 an evening match each my funds and my wants. However Tupelo has numerous inns nearer to the motion within the coronary heart of town, together with the boutique Lodge Tupelo in Tupelo’s revitalized historic downtown district, with its simmering restaurant and bar scene.

The next morning, the skies have been blue. I bought up early for a visit to the Natchez Hint Parkway Customer Heart simply north of city. As soon as contained in the brick constructing, I used to be pulled in by a timeline of the previous street, which started with photographs of herd animals and continued on to the importance of the Choctaw, Chickasaw and Natchez peoples, and to the passage’s heyday from the mid-1700s to the early 1800s. Its decline coincided with the introduction of steamboats round 1820. I used to be shocked to be taught that the parkway’s development, which started in 1938, was solely simply accomplished in 2005.