The corner of Manhattan Beach Boulevard and Ocean Drive tells a tale of two eras: Manhattan Beach’s surf bum past and its glitzy present. On the south side of the intersection sits Shellback Tavern. Preserved within its blacked-out beachfront windows and memorabilia-covered walls — signed by volleyball gold medalists Misty May-Treanor and Kerri Walsh Jennings and other local icons — is one of the last places in the neighborhood where you can buy a few beers with only the damp, crumpled 20-dollar bill in the pocket of your swim trunks. On the north side, there’s the Strand House, a multistory bar and restaurant built mostly of steel and paneless glass windows, which serves $50 entrees and provides diners with an unencumbered view of the beach, the sunset and the turquoise Manhattan Beach pier.
Get to know Los Angeles through the places that bring it to life. From restaurants to shops to outdoor spaces, here’s what to discover now.
“Manhattan Beach was a small, quiet beach town for most of its history, and many residents like to cling to that image,” said Gary McAulay, a retired policeman and former head of the Manhattan Beach Historical Society, who has lived in Manhattan Beach for 40 years. “In some ways, it actually is still a close-knit community, but skyrocketing real estate prices and hyper-gentrification, as well as burgeoning tourism, have had their effect on the town’s character.”
Angelenos who find themselves in Manhattan Beach may wonder if they accidentally landed in an idyllic beach town instead of an incorporated city off the 405, just south of LAX. Stroll around the hilly, pedestrian-only walk streets to find groups of friends barbecuing in front yards from morning to night. Pop into a cafe for a lemonade or a boutique for a seashell-covered home decor item. Take a bike ride along the beachfront promenade, the Strand, where maybe you’ll stop to watch a volleyball tournament — or just lust after the homes. At the end of a beach day, summit Manhattan Beach Boulevard and take a seat at Simmzy’s for an ahi tuna starter, burger and sangria.
As in the rest of Los Angeles County, median home prices in Manhattan Beach have doubled over the last 10 years. For better or for worse, depending on who you ask, the upscale-ification has helped make the beach city an even more popular weekend destination. Manhattan Beach Post and Fishing With Dynamite (both helmed by chef David Lefevre) have received numerous accolades, including spots on The Times’ 101 Best Restaurants list, over the years. The Strand House is part of the Zislis Group portfolio, which also owns the swanky Shade Hotel and other restaurants and gastropubs dotting Manhattan Beach Boulevard and the surrounding areas.
The long-standing neighborhood classics are still there — the Kettle and Pancho’s, for instance — but as blogger and longtime beach cities resident Jennifer Richmond notes, “Those are definitely few and far between from the more high-end, three- and four-dollar-sign restaurants.”
This guide encompasses both the neighborhood’s roots and its modern reality. You’ll find more quaint character in the north Manhattan Beach neighborhood of El Porto, new and old gems in the downtown area and true community both further inland and throughout. And, as befits a beach city, the best things are still free.
“Take a stroll along the ocean and get your toes wet,” advises McAulay. “Watch the sunset. It’s beautiful.”
What’s included in this guide
Anyone who’s lived in a major metropolis can tell you that neighborhoods are a tricky thing. They’re eternally malleable and evoke sociological questions around how we place our homes, our neighbors and our communities within a wider tapestry. In the name of neighborly generosity, we included gems that may linger outside of technical parameters. Instead of leaning into stark definitions, we hope to celebrate all of the places that make us love where we live.
